review

Geist im Glas

There's no better way to kick off the weekend than with a hearty serving of biscuits and gravy.

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Behold the rowdy Neukölln bar that embodies Berlin's spirit in the very best way. Come to Geist im Glas during the day for one of the most indulging brunches money can buy in the republic's capital. Allow the sun to set though, and you'll see the whole place turn into a wild bar with sensational cocktails and vibes.

"...I was wearing a devil's costume and I was very drunk."

I remember the first time I entered Geist im Glas if it was yesterday. It was for a supper club the owner Aishah Bennett organized, I was wearing a devil's costume and I was very drunk. It seems like a lifetime away today (probably just four years) and since then many things happened at Geist im Glas. Aishah stopped organizing supper clubs, became very serious about mixology and eventually developed a crush on extravagantly rich brunch food. There was also a fire. Seven minutes of flames that in 2016 left the bar in charcoal shambles and forced a renovation of the whole venue, turning it into the incredibly warm and cosy hideout we know today. Since early 2017 Geist im Glas is back to former glory, and it’s finally time to tell the tale of the fluffiest pancakes south of the river.

"Since early 2017 Geist im Glas is back to former glory, and it’s finally time to tell the tale of the fluffiest pancakes south of the river."

Enter Geist (as most people like to abbreviate the name) on a weekend morning and you will be greeted with the glorious smell of coffee and breakfast. You might not expect the bar you stumbled out of last night around 03:30 am to be able to whip out of one of Berlin's tastiest brunch fare, but I can assure you that this is the case. Take the Huevos Rancheros, the tex mex staple, a massive plate of Chipotle black bean soaked homemade tortilla chips with mountains of guacamole, sour cream, pico de gallo, two sunny side eggs and grated feta. Or Biscuits and Gravy, a spin on the classic Southern U.S. dish, where cheddar cheese and jalapeño biscuits are drained in delicious sausage gravy. While the Huevos Rancheros are ok and the Biscuits are better, it’s really the pancakes that reach true greatness.

"...you will be greeted by the glorious smell of coffee and breakfast."

They are the signature item of the Geist im Glas brunch repertoire, a dish that’s by now traveled across all Berlin street food markets and has earned them plenty of accolades. I’m talking about thick Buttermilk Pancakes, filled with bananas, served with a massive dollop of salty dulce de leche (!) and a shot of Wild Turkey Bourbon maple syrup on the side. A total showstopper that does not only stop shows but really time. The way the dulce de leche is used here is sensational and the combination with the maple syrup on the pancakes is nothing less than spectacular.

"A total showstopper that does not only stop shows, but really time."

And as Geist is a very decent cocktail bar in its heart, every gram of hangover that hasn’t been exorcised with the food will vanish with a cocktail pitcher of Bloody Mary’s (of which there are no less than three on the menu) or my favourite, the Barrel Aged Yuzu Pimm’s. If not that, your endless cup of filter coffee will.

Geist im Glas is a place with a big heart, a refuge where great feasts and drinks from all corners of the world are pushed to a a very tasty and fun experience. This place is a home away from home and a place in a time that we'll remember because it embodies the spirit of Berlin in exactly the way we want to remember it. Lang lebe der Geist Berlins.

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Per Meurling

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Geist im Glas