The Guide Michelin 2019 for Germany was released on February 26th, 2019 in Berlin and, as usual, Berlin surprised the rest of the world with a few, very unexpected Michelin star winners.
“..it was already clear that the Berlin line-up of starred restaurants would lose two of its most famed members”
Before the 2019 German Michelin guide even was released, it was already clear that the Berlin line-up of starred restaurants would lose two of its most famed members: Reinstoff in Mitte closed its doors after ten years of service and thereby also resigning its 2 Michelin stars and the same applies to Christian Lohse and his restaurant Fischers Fritz at the Regent. Luckily, in Berlin the next culinary trailblazers are always just around the corner. As usual, there were a lot of speculations beforehand on who would get stars this year. The hottest contender for a new star was probably Ernst in Wedding, the famed 12-seater that moved from a private apartment setting to a proper restaurant in 2017 and who become famous way beyond the borders of Berlin and Germany. The question here was more wether Ernst would move in at one or maybe two stars directly. But there were also plenty of speculations if this would indeed be the year that Tim Raue would make the move from two the three stars.
“The outcome showed again how hard the Michelin Guide is to predict”
The outcome showed again how hard the Michelin Guide is to predict: In total, 37 new one-stars were awarded in Germany this year. In addition to that, 6 restaurants moved from one star to two stars (among those Sosein in Heroldsberg, one of my favourite restaurants in Germany outside of Berlin). And, to everybody’s surprise – no new three stars in Berlin and Germany, which means that Tim Raue is stuck with this two stars and that Berlin has to wait another year for its third star.
“But this wasn’t the big surprise of the night: The fourth star was!”
Of the 37 new stars, four were awarded to Berlin, and I can say that three of those came as a surprise to me. Ernst did, as expected, receive their first star and head chef Dylan Watson-Brawn commented “Thank you – we won’t change anything!” and jokingly adding “Expect maybe downsize to half the seats” when asked if he is thinking of increasing the size of the restaurant. The second new star in Berlin was awarded to Savu and Finnish Head Chef Sauli Kemppainen, a chef that’s cooked several Michelin stars before. The third star went to CODA, the extraordinary Dessert Dining restaurant in Neukölln, that’s been waiting for a star for three years. “We’re thrilled that our efforts have finally paid off, especially the adjustment of our concept from cocktails to dining.” a seemingly relieved Head Chef René Frank commented. But CODA wasn’t the big surprise of the night: The fourth star was. In the true spirit of widening horizons and acknowledging diversity, Thai restaurant Kin Dee in Schöneberg with Head Chef Dalad Kambhu received a Michelin star for her contemporary take on Thai food with local ingredients. “It’s incredible, we just came out of a complicated year and this was so unexpected. I’m just happy to be putting proper Thai food on the Berlin map.” a happy Kambhu commented. And so am I, this makes Kambhu the youngest woman to ever receive s star in Germany and this a tremendous achievement.
This puts the total number of Michelin star restaurants in Berlin to 23 with an offering that’s more diverse and exciting than ever. These are the Berlin Michelin stars of 2019:
2 STARS **
1 STAR *
CODA Dessert Dining | Frank, René (new)
Ernst | Watson-Brawn, Dylan (new)
Kin Dee | Kambhu, Dalad (new)
SAVU | Kemppainen, Sauli (new)
Golvet | Swanson, Björn
tulus lotrek | Strohe, Max
Cookies Cream | Hentschel, Stephan
Frühsammers| Frühsammer, Sonja
Hugos | Lange, Eberhard
5 – cinco by Paco Pérez | Rehberger, Andreas
Pauly Saal | Gieselmann, Dirk
SKYKITCHEN flavored by a.choice | Koppe, Alexander
Nobelhart & Schmutzig | Schäfer, Micha
Bandol Sur Mer | Saul, Andreas
Bieberbau | Garkisch, Stephan
Markus Semmler | Semmler, Markus
Richard | Richard, Hans
einsunternull | Pfeufer, Silvio