Touring Bavaria

A culinary road trip through the South

Jun 12th, 2018
THIS ARTICLE IS PRESENTED IN COLLABORATION WITH DS AUTOMOBILES
DIESER ARTIKEL WIRD IN ZUSAMMENARBEIT MIT DS AUTOMOBILES PRÄSENTIERT

The lush green hills and mountainous region of Southern Bavaria is a stunning part of Germany, a place where every village and alpine house looks straight from the setting of “Sound of Music” and where you’re tempted to pull over your car to enjoy the view every other kilometre. Southern Bavaria has much more to offer than beautiful landscapes though, this part of Germany is home to some of the country’s most revered food and drink culture and you will not get hungry while travelling this part of the world. Bavaria is not only the origin of many dishes that are quintessential to classical German eating in a foreigner’s mind, like the “Haxe” (braised pork knuckle), “Schweinebraten” (pork roast) or “Weißwurst” (white veal sausage). It’s also home to some of the best beer breweries of the country along with a stunning wine region in the North-Eastern district of Frankonia.

“The lush green hills and mountainous region of Southern Bavaria is a stunning part of Germany, a place where every village and alpine house looks straight from the setting of “Sound of Music””

Previous, culinary explorations of mine in Bavaria have been limited to the capital Munich and the traditional dishes mentioned above, but in the spring of 2018 I had the chance to embark a culinary deep-dive into the edible treats of Munich and the surrounding countryside with the help of a stunning DS 7 Crossback, the SUV by DS Automobiles.

“The Duke gin was born out of a passion project that started in 2007”

Equipped with this extraordinary set of wheels my journey started in Munich where I kicked of the tour at the gin distillery “The Duke”, where owner Maximilian von Pückler, an exceptionally eloquent Bavarian sporting a fantastic moustache, gave me a detailed tour of his kingdom. The Duke gin was born out of a passion project that started in 2007, a time when artisanal gin was still unheard of and Max and his friend decided to follow their dream of conceiving a Bavarian gin and what started with a few bottles in their backyard in Munich, has ten years later accumulated a fan base that stretches far across the borders of Bavaria. In order to meet the explosive demand for The Duke, the distillery recently moved to a stunning old building in the suburb of Aschheim and it was here that Maximilian took me on a tour around the stunning premises and taught me the subtle differences between their three varieties of gin and the different aromatics used.

As the sun set I drove back into the city just in time for dinner at “Hoiz“, a modern brasserie in the city centre that emulates the urban trend of contemporary and entertaining eating based on regional ingredients. It didn’t disappoint, a solid and very classic rendition of beef tartar was followed by a plate of asparagus with potatoes, ham and a generous drizzle of sauce hollandaise, and since I had left the car at the hotel there was also a chance to sample the fantastic offering of natural and classic wines from German producers from the “Hoiz” cellar.

“Located a couple of clicks West of Regensburg, the rowdy, long-haired chef with his signature, viking-like beard left his job to create Germany’s only organic Wagyu beef farm”

Upon the break of dawn I finally left Munich in my rear mirror as I drove the Crossback towards the very South Eastern tip of Germany, making my way through stunning serpentine streets, and finally arriving at Königssee, a magnificent mountain lake lined by massive rocks and a backdrop of snow-covered alpine mountains. After a boat ride on the lake that included an echo-inducing trumpet concert by the captain himself, and a massive lunch at a classical Bavarian eatery in Jenner (cheese and ham-filled Schnitzel must be one of the culinary hacks of the century), it was time to once again hit the road and drive to my dinner location: The farm of Ludwig “Lucki” Maurer and his private dining restaurant “STOI”.

DS 7 Crossback Bavaria Tour Per Meurling Schnitzel

 

Located a couple of clicks West of Regensburg, the rowdy, long-haired chef with his signature, viking-like beard left his job to create Germany’s only organic Wagyu beef farm (started in 2007). He tends his 60 cows like they are his own and is widely recognized as one of Germany’s formest meat experts. In 2016 Maurer’s wife and him refurbished the ancient stable house of the estate into a restaurant space. The restaurant, named “STOI”, after the Bavarian dialect word of stable, is not an ordinary restaurant you can just drop in and visit – STOI is only open for special events where you need to buy a ticket in advance. Doing so is highly recommended, Maurer regularly hosts interactive dinners along with some of Germany’s best chefs in his kitchen and the meals served at “STOI” go well beyond what you would expect of a simple farm meal.

DS 7 Crossback Bavaria Tour Per Meurling Luki Maurer]
Talking to Lucki Maurer

The food at STOI touched upon Michelin-star level in unexpected ways, for example when a butter poached Canadian lobster is so velvety-smooth it silences a whole table, or when a raw trout was served perfectly chewy and fatty, all due to the use of the Japanese slaughtering technique “Ike Jime”, which allows for a week long aging of the fish. The grande finale of any meal at Lucki Maurer’s temple of feasting are certainly the meat courses, usually in the form of porterhouse or flat iron steaks, which are taken to new heights by Maurer’s vast knowledge of dry aging meats. We sat long into the night that evening as Maurer told stories while plates of food were sent from the kitchen and eventually I fell into my bed in a food-induced coma with buttery lobster tails dancing through my dreams.

“We sat long into the night that evening as Maurer told stories while plates of food were sent from the kitchen and eventually I fell into my bed in a food-induced coma with buttery lobster tails dancing through my dreams.”

Next morning I set the DS navigation system for Aschau, a tiny little village close to the lake Chiemsee, which was set to be my last stop on my tour in Bavaria. The place I was heading for was the “MesserWerk”, a small kitchen knife workshop run by two passionate and bearded blacksmiths called Luca Distler and Florian Pichler. They have in the course of ten years earned themselves a reputation as one of Germany finest knife manufacturers, all based on the marvellous attention to detail these two put into their forging their knife masterpieces. Every blade consists out over 360 layers of folded Damascus steel and the handles are made from luxurious woods or salvaged fossils like Mammoth ivory, this is also the reason that the customized creations start retailing at around a thousand euros. After a tour of their shop, Luca Distler asked if I was hungry (of course I was) and 20 minutes later, after the guys had exchanged their scruffy blacksmith outfit for a t-shirt and jeans, we were driving down a stunning vista of the Chiemsee on our way to their favourite lunch place in a town called Prien

“It was a journey full of passionate characters with tremendous stories…”

Soon we pulled up to the restaurant of Thomas Mühlberger where we situated ourselves around a dining bar that stretches around his show kitchen. Mühlberger and his team then served us a lunch that was a worthy finale of this gourmet journey. In the end it was tough to say which dish I enjoyed more, the starter of raw salmon trout with cucumber and apple or the asparagus ravioli in morel sauce, two vibrant dishes that looked smashing and showcased the rich bounty of the region.

DS 7 Crossback Bavaria Tour Per Meurling Thomas Mühlberger Trout
Rainbow trout sashimi. Apples. Cucumber.

After lunch I bid farewell to my new friends in food Luca and Florian as I had to make my way back to Munich airport. As the car steadily plowed through the heavy rain on my way to the airport, I had plenty of time to reflect on the last days. It was a journey full of passionate characters with tremendous stories, long drives through jaw-dropping scenery and, of course, magnificent meals that I won’t forget any time soon. I shall certainly return to Bavaria

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THIS ARTICLE IS PRESENTED IN COLLABORATION WITH DS AUTOMOBILES

DIESER ARTIKEL WIRD IN ZUSAMMENARBEIT MIT DS AUTOMOBILES PRÄSENTIERT

STOI by Ludwig Maurer
Schergengrub 3
94371 Rattenberg
+499963/ 943 747
info@ludwigmaurer.com

THOMAS MÜHLBERGER
Bernauer Straße 31
83209 Prien am Chiemsee
+498051/966 888

DS 7 Crossback Bavaria Tour Per Meurling

DS 7 Crossback Bavaria Tour Per Meurling 3

DS 7 Crossback Bavaria Tour Per Meurling Königssee Church

DS 7 Crossback Bavaria Tour Per Meurling Konigssee

DS 7 Crossback Bavaria Tour Per Meurling Konigssee Boat

 

 

DS 7 Crossback Bavaria Tour Per Meurling Wagyu Cows

DS 7 Crossback Bavaria Tour Per Meurling Cow

DS 7 Crossback Bavaria Tour Per Meurling Beef Tartar

DS 7 Crossback Bavaria Tour Per Meurling Stoi Trout

DS 7 Crossback Bavaria Tour Per Meurling Stoi LObster

DS 7 Crossback Bavaria Tour Per Meurling Lobster Sauce

DS 7 Crossback Bavaria Tour Per Meurling Stoi Cooking

DS 7 Crossback Bavaria Tour Per Meurling Cutting Steak at Stoi

DS 7 Crossback Bavaria Tour Per Meurling Lsndscape

DS 7 Crossback Bavaria Tour Per Meurling Bavarian church

DS 7 Crossback Bavaria Tour Per Meurling Thomas Mühlberger Trout

DS 7 Crossback Bavaria Tour Per Meurling at Thomas Muehlberger

DS 7 Crossback Bavaria Tour Per Meurling Morrel Ravioli

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