The Store is a brand new concept store based out of the SOHO House Berlin that is home to everything from a fashion shop to a hairdresser. Included is also the kitchen, which already in its infancy shows how healthy food indeed can be delicious and that we should be pretty excited about this space when it comes to food.
The Store occupies the bottom floor of the Berlin SOHO house building, a massively cool structure with tons of history , having housed everything from a Jewish department store to the headquarters of the Communist Parties Central Committee. After the wall came down, the building was handed back to the original owner family who then a couple of years ago leased out the majority of the building to the SOHO House. Despite general perception, the whole structure is in fact not occupied by the SOHO House and the owners always had their own ideas on how to develop the bottom floor and the cellar. The first idea in a long line of exciting projects to see the light of day is The Store, a massive space which is fashion shop, event space, hair dresser, restaurant and café all in one.
The Store just opened up for the public, so no SOHO House membership required (otherwise I wouldn’t write about it). It’s located on the ground floor’s right wing and you enter it through the main house entrance by taking an immediate right. The space is pretty amazing and nothing but beautiful, first time visitors are always struck by the massive size of the space as it stretches way into the back of the building with its high ceilings. The dining is still pretty small but the back part is being developed into a larger, seated area as we’re speaking.
The result is a fresh and vibrant menu, unique for Berlin, which screams healthy living and adds an exciting layer to the city’s food repertoire.
The owners always wanted a modern food concept that would fit into this project and with the two London born restaurateurs Johnnie Collins and Tommy Tannock (the latter better known as the founder of the street food party Bite Club) they found just the right people to execute their vision. These two spent months developing the concept and building supplier relationships with the vision of modern and healthy food based on the highest quality produce where as much as possible is sourced from the local producers. The outcome is a style best described as something from a cookbook by UK/Israeli food legend Ottolenghi, a cooking style that has Israeli cuisine as a base and mixes this with ingredients from Mediterranean and Western European kitchens. At The Store, Johnnie and Tommy have taken this style and applied their own touch to it. The result is a fresh and vibrant menu, unique for Berlin, which screams healthy living and adds an exciting layer to the city’s food repertoire.
Can healthy food be delicious? Fuck YES!
An important part of this concept is the cold press juice bar that is attached to The Store and which whips out fantastic juices in a wide selection of flavours and colours, I’ve yet sample one of them that wasn’t bloody delicious. The lunch menu currently consists out of salads, soups and sandwiches and in a lunch combo you’ll get a mixed salad plate with a bowl of soup and a cold press juice for 12€, which I find quite reasonable. The salad bar at The Store might just be the freshest and most modern in town, with outstanding creations like the quinoa and celeriac salad, chicory and blood orange or grilled aubergines with chickpeas. The quality of the ingredients, the balance of flavours and the sheer simplicity shine through these creations. My favourite soup has been a green spinach soup with fennel and lemon, a bone-warming creation that hits a perfect balance of acidity and fennel. The sandwiches are also great and loaded with great stuff, like the killer croissant with speck, pecorino and cavalo nero. The food at The Store is basically the food you wish you could and would be cooking at home. It’s very simplistic and scaled down, with a focus on quality. It’s for me also the answer to the question that’s been lingering on our minds: Can healthy food be delicious? Fuck YES! And these guys are showing that it’s a lot easier than you might think.
Right now The Store is only open for breakfast and lunch due to logistical restraints, but with the upcoming construction of a downstairs kitchen they will eventually also open for dinner service. Some of you will seek the comparison with Daluma as both eateries have similar food concepts. The difference is pretty clear to me, Daluma is great and most importantly an eatery which is a lot more focused on food at the very healthiest end of the spectrum. It’s detox heaven and very functional. When it however comes to flavour and what makes me salivate, The Store is miles ahead for me. You can clearly see the very strong influences of smart, modern cooking at The Store and I love that because it adds another dimension to the restaurant scene that I’ve been missing very dearly. Healthy food can be delicious and I can’t wait to see the development of The Store over the year.