Grosz is a classical fine dining institution on West Berlin’s parade street Kurfürstendamm with a 1920’s flair where you can consume oysters, steaks, celebrities and those who want to be. A beautiful venue, great drinks and pretty good food make this an interesting destination for a splurging night out in the West.
Grosz was once the press favourite example of the much talked about West-Berlin-is-cool-again movement that proclaims Kudamm and it’s surroundings to be hip again. While opinions differ on the actual truth and substance behind this statement (including my own), there have indeed been a couple of interesting restaurant openings in West Berlin lately. Grosz is one of them, a project by Roland Marie, the owner of THE Berlin celebrity restaurant Borchardt in Mitte. Named after a famous 1920 painter, Grosz is located right on Kurfürstendamm in a prime real estate with the objective to recreate some of that famous Berlin 1920’s charm. And I must say, the venue is spot on, the second you enter you are beamed right into another decade and you immediately forget everything you know about Berlin. The interior and decor look old and expensive, waiters are dressed in white shirts, black vests and bow ties and there is this unusual aura of sophistication you hardly find in East Berlin. Well, except in the microcosmos Borchardt. Marie has done an impressive job setting up his Western dependance, it’s all very authentic and the love in the details is great.
The best dish I had at Grosz so far, veal medallions with porcini mushrooms, a perfectly executed dish using great produce
Grosz is a coffee house, bar and restaurant in one location, which means that you can visit without eating anything at all. Or in case you’re waiting for a table (unlikely btw), you can also slurp away at some very good cocktails in the bar area that takes up the front part of the house. If you now choose to dine at Grosz, you can expect a similar experience to Borchardt but more geared to something like Grill Royal. The menu is focused around classics like oysters and various steak cuts with the addition of a seasonal menu that has classic French roots. The oysters, served on the classic silver pedestal, were decent but really not outstanding and the same thing unfortunately goes for the steaks. Of the three cuts I tried only one (the most expensive) was good, the others were actually nothing special at all and very boring, lacking in both produce quality and the way they were cooked. Same thing goes for the sides. The dishes from the seasonal menu were better, for example the tuna steaks with veggies, two massive steaks that were perfectly cooked. Or the best dish I had at Grosz so far, veal medallions with porcini mushrooms, a perfectly executed dish using great produce. The seasonal pasta dish with porcini was sadly also nothing special though and, like many other things, heavily overpriced when compared to restaurants in other parts of the city. But of course, this is not just any part of the city, this is Kudamm.
If you like Borchardt, you will definitely also like Grosz and in the end this is a cool location for a fancy meal.
Grosz is a nice way to experience something entirely different and a great place to go if you love hanging out with the high society. It’s also located in a very beautiful venue and I would seriously recommend swinging by to check it out during your next shopping spree on Kudamm, but really only for a cup of coffee or a drink in the bar. The food is not bad but it’s really also nothing special at all and there are several restaurants who do the dishes better and to a much better value for money. If you really want to spend this kind of money (tough to leave the place under 60€/70€ per head), I would advice you to put in a few extra bucks and go to one of the Michelin star restaurants. In the end this is exactly why I don’t go to Borchardt too often. I only care about the food experience and I couldn’t care less if I was dining with celebs, politicians or a gang of raggedy ass punks. But if you like Borchardt, you will definitely also like Grosz and in the end this is a cool location for a fancy meal.